Editor's Note: China is divided into as many culinary regions as there are different ethnic groups. Its geographical diversity and kaleidoscopic cultural profiles contribute to the unending banquet of flavors.

The winter night was cold and damp. Light rain had lacquered the streets with a shine that reflected the shadows of passers-by huddled into their turned-up collars.

In the dark distance, clouds of steam rose from an open-air food stall, the fragrant fog almost obliterating the surrounding urban landscape.

We were on our way to a midnight supper of clay pot rice. This was at a narrow back alley on Hong Kong island's North Point district, and in those days it was an industrial estate where several media groups had their newsrooms. It was common to hear off-duty newsmen animatedly discussing the next morning's headlines.

Clay pot rice is a Cantonese culinary institution that started in old Guangzhou and slowly spread to Hong Kong and Southeast Asian countries. Photos Provided to China Daily

Clay pot rice is a Cantonese culinary institution that started in old Guangzhou and slowly spread to Hong Kong and Southeast Asian countries.

Originally eaten as a winter warmer, it is so much a taste of home that it continued its popularity even when the Cantonese migrated to equatorial countries.

The successful art of cooking rice in a clay pot rests on the essential equipment: the clay pot.

This is a rough shallow pot with a handle, unglazed except for the inside. The pot has to be well seasoned so the rice does not stick while cooking. Sometimes, a thick wire is looped around the pot to help it hold together, conduct heat and better withstand the open flames.

Then, there is the fire.

Charcoal was used in the past, but more efficient and environmentally friendly gas is now more common.

The chef has to be a master manipulator with perfect timing.

He has to make sure the bottom layer of rice is cooked through, as well as the savory ingredients on top. Finally, the real test of a good clay pot rice is the slightly burned crust that must come with every pot. Everything depends on how well the fire is controlled.

The rice used is the long-grained perfumed rice that southerners love. Every grain is clearly defined and has none of the lumpy starchiness associated with northern short-grained rice.

In Guangzhou, the best rice is the locally grown simiao variety, named "silky shoots". Unfortunately, production in recent years has been threatened by encroaching urbanization and industrialization in that area.

Imported jasmine rice from Thailand is an expensive substitute.

Rice is cleaned and then put in the clay pot with water, after which it is placed on high heat. When the aroma of rapidly boiling rice rises, the pot is shifted to a lower flame to simmer until the water falls below the surface of the grains.

Next, a plateful of ingredients is carefully spread on top.

The classic combinations are oyster-sauce-marinated chicken and mushrooms, with or without the addition of sweet Chinese sausages, pork ribs in bean sauce, or well-velveted sliced beef that is topped with an egg just before serving. Sometimes, a selection of cured meats is placed on top of the rice and their aromatic fat allowed to leach into the cooking rice.

When the ingredients are cooked by the residual steam, the chef will start toasting the crust by turning the sides of the pot and letting the fire dry out the crust. The best is a crispy crust that is slightly burned but will come away easily from the bottom of the pot.

Just before serving, blanched mustard greens are placed on top.

Then, the whole sizzling clay pot is brought steaming to the table, together with a bowl of seasoned soy sauce.

The diner pours the bowl of sauce over the rice, enjoys the steam created by the meeting of hot rice and sauce, then settles down to a satisfying meal of fluffy fragrant rice, crispy crust, aromatic meats and vegetables.

paulined@chinadaily.com.cn

Clay pot rice, with variations

The clay pot:

Buy a nice thick clay pot that's wider than it is tall. While the rustic varieties are still available in Chinatowns and Asian grocery stores, you can also get more polished versions that are fully glazed.

You can choose smaller clay pots for individual servings, or a larger size to serve the whole family, but smaller pots are easier to handle.

The first thing you need to do is to check the clay pot for hairline cracks. The best way is to immerse it completely in water and look for tiny bubbles on the surface of the ceramic. Leave it soaking for a day or two before using.

Toppings:

Chicken and mushrooms

Use two whole wings and cut each into four pieces. Marinate in 1 tablespoon of oyster sauce, 1 teaspoon of soy sauce and 1 tablespoon of cornstarch. Add pepper to taste. Soak three dried shiitake mushrooms and cut each in half. Mix the mushrooms with the chicken. Marinate until ready to cook.

Assembly: When the rice has no more surface water, spread the topping on top and close the lid. The chicken cooks very easily.

Chicken and sausages

Skip the shiitake mushrooms from the recipe above. Add a whole Chinese sausage.

Assembly: When the rice has no more surface water, spread the chicken on one side and place the sausage on the other, and close the lid.

Silky beef and onsen egg

Slice 250g of lean beef against the grain. Marinate with salt and pepper, a beaten egg white and a generous tablespoon of cornstarch with a tiny pinch of baking soda. Add soy sauce to taste and a little sugar. You have to massage the beef slices well, until the egg white is fully absorbed. Add a spoonful of vegetable oil and set aside. Cook the egg in boiling water for three minutes.

Assembly: When the rice has no more surface water, spread the topping on top and close the lid. Just before serving, crack the egg into the pot, clamp down the lid and then serve.

Winter cured meats

Prepare one sweet Chinese sausage, one liver sausage and a cured duck thigh cut up into thin slices. You can also use cured belly pork or salty ham.

Assembly: When the rice has no more surface water, spread the sausages and cured meats on top and close the lid.

The sauce:

Every family has their favorite recipe, and this is the one I like.

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

1 teaspoon sugar

2 tablespoons mirin

1 teaspoon sesame oil

Mix together and pour over the rice at the table.

The rice:

For a clay pot for two, measure out one cup of rice, wash well and drain. Measure one and a half cups water and add with rice to clay pot. Cook over high heat till the rice bubbles. Lower the heat and simmer.

This is when you have to watch the rice. As soon as you cannot see any more water on the surface of the rice, pour in the savory ingredients. Close the lid tightly and cook for another 10 minutes.

If you like a crusty bottom, the easiest way is to turn on the bottom element of your oven grill and toast the pot for 10 minutes.

(China Daily European Weekly 12/01/2017 page19)