Grilled unagi. [Photo by Wang Zhuangfei/China Daily]

Makoto adopts the traditional Kansai way: The eel is split open from the stomach rather than the back, and he grills the fillets on skewers over charcoal without steaming.

Besides the noted unagi, Missi Missi offers other grilled items, such as chicken meatball, head of salmon, and some daily recommended grilled fish specials from the master chef.

Fried items such as a tempura assortment as well as sushi offerings are as good as some other Japanese restaurants you will find in Beijing, but not distinctive.

But one dish we ranked next to unagi at Missi Missi is miso pork cutlet (68 yuan, or $10.90), a specialty from the chef's hometown of Nagoya. Deep-fried marinated pork chops are beautifully crisp on the outside, tender and succulent inside. Biting through the crunchy breading into the juicy meat gives an intense taste bud. The red miso-based sauce, topped onto the pork outlets is sweet and salty, adding a burst of flavor. Shredded cabbage salad is also paired on the plate.

Grilled eel (128 yuan) and unadon (148 yuan) are only served during dinner hours. If you want to have Grandpa Unadon's signature eel dishes, be sure to make a reservation at least one or two days in advance, as only 20 eels are served daily.